For this trip, I did something out of the ordinary: I did not thoroughly plan my trip to Bruges. It was a tad stressful but filled with exciting surprises. (I learned quickly that Bruges is pronounced “broohz,” and not like bridges with a “u.”)
The first surprise was that one of my best friends from home who is studying abroad in France planned a trip to Brussels the same weekend I did! It was so good to explore Bruges with Rachel, and this was certainly divinely organized. The week before traveling to Brussels, I wasn’t in the highest spirits. This short time with Rachel was reenergizing and I feel more like myself. I was reminded that although I am studying abroad, it is important to stay connected with my roots and with the people who I love and love me at home.
From Brussels, we took the morning train to Bruges after a quick breakfast in the hostel. The soft morning sun, calm river, and the fresh air of Minnewaterpark were so refreshing compared to the air of Brussels. We spent the morning meandering through a flea market, peeping inside churches (Sint-Annakerk was beautiful), walking across bridges (Bonifacius Bridge was the most romantic), and taking many pictures. It was interesting to see how these churches are decorated differently than the churches in Prague, specifically in the style of artwork and the use of chairs instead of pews.
As we walked, we happened upon Burg Square. We overheard a tour guide explain that many visitors forget to visit the lower part of the Basilica, which is just to the right of the City Hall. As a tourist, I thought the Basilica was just another ornately decorated building. We listened to the guide’s advice and visited the lower and upper parts of the Basilica. According to the Basilica website, the lower part was built in the first half of the 12th century and is the only church in the Romanesque style of West Flanders. The wooden statue of Jesus on the Cold Stone is carried during the annual procession of the Holy Blood. The Gothic upper basilica was built at the end of the 15th century.
In the upper part of the Basilica, we noticed a group of people sitting and waiting at a side altar. I remember reading that the Basilica has a piece of Jesus’ burial cloth, and I wondered if these people were gazing at it. A few minutes later, a priest came out and led an opening prayer. People were then invited to walk up to the altar and venerate the relic one at a time. Today, I read that the Basilica’s possession of the relic can be traced back to the 13th century. The relic most likely came to Belgium after the fall of Constantinople in 1204. (It is believed that the relic came to Constantinople from the efforts of St. Helen.)
This was such a powerful experience. Every week we consume the transubstantiated Body of Christ in the Eucharistic bread. This relic is the same as the Blood of Christ at Mass, but it was easier for my tiny human brain to believe Jesus’ true humanity and divinity in this cloth. As I research the Basilica now to write this post, I notice how important the Basilica is to Bruges. There is even an annual procession of the Holy Blood in the city. Rachel and I stumbled upon the Basilica at the perfect time for veneration- yet another surprise and divinely organized moment. The veneration times listed on the website are different than when we visited, and we would have missed the veneration if we used the website.
Afterward, Rachel and I tried a Belgium beer and took a boat tour. Bruges is a small town, and one of the best ways to see the beautiful architecture is from the river. I am impressed with our boat captain, who casually switched between four or five languages to explain the landmarks as we passed.
We then took a long lunch break and planned the rest of the day which included at least one Belgium waffle, climbing the 366 steps up the Belfort tower before sunset, and Saturday vigil mass at 7:00pm at Sint-Jakobskerk (St. James’ Church). We accomplished these three priorities in addition to drinking another Belgium beer and thrift shopping. (I bought a puffer jacket with removable sleeves and a red t-shirt with a zebra, and Rachel bought a couple scarves and a nice jacket). We ate our waffles on the steps of the monument to Jan Breydel en Pieter de Coninck on Grote Markt and watched as people went by. At the top of the Belfort tower, we heard the bells strike the hour. Although it was a recording, it was still loud and epic. Fun fact: in the Middle Ages, the chimes were distinguished to signal different occasions, such as the work bell, call to battle, and sound of celebration.
We made it back to Brussels and ate traditional Belgium fries for dinner… more about this in my upcoming post about Brussels. 🙂
kira vesta 
3 thoughts on “Bruges, Belgium”